Read the full Harley Benton Mighty-15TH review But the 15TH’s onboard boost (which is excellent), three-band EQ and extra power shade it for us. The Mighty-15TH has a 5W sibling – the Mighty-5TH – that might tempt those who are playing at home. Not when you’ve just dropped 200 bucks on an amp that would blow some higher-priced competitors out of the water. That’s the only fly in the ointment, and it’s not much to complain about. There’s an onboard boost that sadly isn’t footswitchable. But at a full 15W, we think you’ll appreciate the headroom. The switchable power setting allows you to dial this down to 7W and reach that break-up a little sooner – ideal for the home or studio. Musical and addictive, it’s a remarkable feature for an amp of this price. The cleans are lovely and detailed, but the crunch is something else. This is where the Mighty-15TH really gets going. Under the hood, you have a pair of Ruby Tubes EL84Cs in the power amp that lend the Mighty-15TH a tweed-esque character once the tone starts to break up a little. This bodes well, and positions this priced-for-practice lunchbox head as a potential ally for studio recordings. When you switch the Mighty-15TH on, you’ll get a nice surprise – there’s no noise. The Mighty-15TH has a precision-folded steel chassis, with electronics mounted on a double-sided PCB that’s through-plated for durability. Before we talk tone, we have to mention the build. We’ve seen it in action with the company’s line of electric and acoustic guitars, and to see it here on an all-valve lunchbox head is most thrilling. Who says that a top-quality tube amplifier can’t be priced for beginners, students and any of us who are watching the bottom line? This, of course, is Harley Benton’s special power. A triumph of modern amplifier design, it’s also eminently affordable.Ī footswitch for the boost would’ve been perfect But it has enough gain on tap to please metal players, too, and is utterly convincing no matter how you like your sound. The Blackstar HT Club 40 MkII 6L6 will do a job for any electric guitar player. Some might pooh-pooh the tube amplifier as being a one-trick pony, but that’s baloney. It suggests that players of all ages and levels are inspired by the idea and that mysterious, glowing glass valves still hold a certain magic for guitar players, even though they're a hangover from early 20th-century technology, and we're now living in an age of digital transformation. That we have something for every budget is also a testament to the health of the tube amplifier as a concept. We'll also look at those tube amplifiers that acknowledge the limitations of time-honoured designs and bring onboard intelligent digital technology to compete with the rising tide of innovation that makes the amp modelling market so exciting. But turning up a 5w amp can still get pretty loud.In this guide, we'll look at old-school combos inspired by the tones that helped launch the electric guitar into the pop-cultural firmament. In conclusion, you won’t get the most out of a valve amp if it has a high wattage and you run it on 1 or 2 on its volume settings. While a master volume limits the amount of signal it sends to the power section to amplify, an attenuator will actually reduce the wattage of the power stage, allowing you to saturate the power amp at lower volumes.īrands such as Victory, Orange, Marshall and Tone King all have options to attenuate their amps down to 1 watt or less, allowing you to get a great natural overdrive that the neighbours won't hear! With an attenuator, you can produce a more authentic "cranked amp" sound than just by using the master volume of the amp. Many modern valve amps are built with home use in mind and feature built in attenuators. If you want a clean sound that won’t break up, you need a higher wattage amp that will give you loads of volume(Also known as headroom) before it starts to drive. When your valves are saturated, your sound will break up and distort and is generally the desired effect from a valve amp. The lower the wattage, the lower the volume required to saturate the poweramp stage. This ‘saturates’ the poweramp and pushes the speakers harder which gives you a much warmer sound than if you didn’t push the poweramp. In order to get the most out of a valve amp, you need to turn them up loud. I’ve heard you have to turn them up loud?
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